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SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- Oct 05-Jan 06
Subject/ Area: Fiji Islands (part two- Vanua Levu +
Taveuni)
Dear SSCA,
Islands on the way
from Suva/Levuka towards Savusavu:
Wakaya Island: This entire island is the property of a very exclusive resort for the rich and famous. The accommodations appear to be private villas built into the landscape and scattered all over the island. No one is allowed ashore, but yachts are allowed to anchor in the lagoon and even in the bay (Nuku Tubu) on the northern tip of Wakaya, although this anchorage always has a side swell. There is not much to recommend a stop except perhaps the scuba diving. The Aggressor dive boat, “Sereni Wai” moors at the Daveta Ni–kavu pass and dives the sheer drop-offs on the outside. We snorkeled over the area, but due to mechanical problems to be solved aboard, left without diving it or exploring the other passes.
Makogai: Within the same reef system as Wakaya, Makogai, a former Leper Colony, is easy to approach thru the western pass (17 26.911S, 178 53.816E), which had a channel marker on the S side. We left for Savusavu thru the N pass, which has no markers and could be dangerous on an approach from seaward in cloudy, overcast wx, as it has no clear-cut breaking reefs for reference. We anchored in a nice little bay with good sand and few coral heads in 25’ (17 26.016S, 178 57.922E) fairly close to the N pass. Snorkeling and spear fishing was good around the big bommies in the pass and outside, but be sure to ask permission and check your catch with the villagers because there IS ciguatera in some of the fish. Also, the waters inside the lagoon are a marine reserve. The “village” is actually a turtle and giant clam breeding station. It’s worth a visit to see their efforts to repopulate these endangered species. We took a 5K, easy, shaded walk on the old road to the settlement on the other side. If you have the time, this is an interesting walk to see the ruins of the former Leper colony, and to marvel at the engineering efforts of the French Catholics which are now being overgrown and lost back to the jungle (not the missionaries :); as extinct as the leprosy for which the efforts were made. The best reward of the walk is the view at the end overlooking the settlement, the valleys, the lagoon and reef, and the neighboring island of Wakaya. The live-aboard dive boat mentioned above, dives the passes and outside the northern reef. We were treated to a few seconds of snorkeling with pilot whales outside the pass (mid-Sept), as they happened to pass all around the dinghy as we drifted.
Save-a-Tack Pass, Namena Reef: there is one channel marker at the S entrance on the E side of the pass (17 07.512S, 179 04.310E). Saw yachts anchored in 30ft of water next to Namena Island. There is also an upscale resort there. The N entrance had no channel markers and seemed to be more a wide area with no breaking reefs rather than a “pass”. We passed over a 20ft spot, but the rest was at least 60-70ft. (17 04.117S, 179 06.185E) Waypoints listed are our references for entering/exiting the pass. Supposed to be some great diving on this reef, sadly we did not get to experience it.
CM93 Charts are inaccurate on the Eastern Regions of Vanua Levu and Taveuni. While the CM93 Charts were quite accurate in Kadavu, they are not in this region. The features are pretty true relative to each other, but they are offset relative to position on the charts, and the offset varies depending on where you are. DO NOT depend solely on GPS waypoints taken from your chart program to navigate through tricky reefs. And, as many others before us have stated, Fiji has some of the most difficult waters to read with eyeball navigation. We have had a few near misses, and a couple of light no-damage touches! If you have to travel in cloudy weather, (too common in most of Fiji) take the route with the most margin for error, and keep a very attentive bow watch (or in the spreaders). Traveling when the tide is mid to low can help you see those very shallow reefs, as they will be exposed or perhaps breaking, whereas with a 6 ft tide difference they may be just lurking where you can’t see them in the murky water.
Savusavu: The bay of Savusavu is a huge bay on the central south side of the island of Vanua Levu, but the town, Port of Entry, and marinas (Copra Shed and Waitui Marina) and cruisers’ hub is tucked into the southeast corner in a very narrow and protected area called the Nakama Creek area. This has probably become the most popular check-in port for yachts since it was granted this status about 5 yrs ago, and it has developed into a cruiser’s hub with all kinds of support, activities, and info especially for those new to Fiji. This is partly due to the efforts of Curly Carswell that you probably met well before you even arrive in Fiji on the SSB radio net, The Rag of the Air (hosted by Jim on “Also II” Freq: 8173 at 1900 Z.). Curly also runs an SSB net on Freq: 4030 at 0630 local, and VHF net on ch 14 at 0830 local. This port is SO popular, and the Nakama Creek area is so narrow, that anchoring and mooring space becomes very limited at the height of the season when yachts are arriving from Tonga or other points to the N and E. Both Copra Shed and Watui Marina offer moorings for rent and some dock spaces (stern to). Both marinas have renovations and extension projects underway. Curley also has some moorings for rent. The Savusavu Marina Village, a big condo/shopping mall/marina project of Robin Irwin is finally starting construction after 20 yrs of waiting! So there may be more changes soon in the area. Locals are amazed at how Savusavu area has changed in the last 10 years! The officials here are the most “by-the-book” so far. (An alternate, never-crowded and painless Port of entry is Levuka, previously described. It is easy to go from Levuka to Savusavu or Suva, and you can break up the trip into day sails.) If you like plenty of cruiser activities, happy hours, inexpensive theme meals, help with things like getting fuel, butane, laundry services, organized seminars and tours, Savusavu is the place! Curly’s Bosun’s Locker is an information, internet, and help center that can assist you in many areas such as getting your cruising permit for Fiji waters, and an invitation to visit one of the islands in the Lau Group. Bebi Electronics is situated in Curly’s bosun locker. Cruisers, Mike and Kendra and their local partner Joe Prasad (that we didn’t meet) are the producers of powerful small white LED lights that use so little energy. We bought 2 anchor lights (1 masthead + 1 deck), 1 cockpit light and 2 spotlights. Mike also repairs all kinds of electronics such as radios, autopilots and wind generators. See Kendra for details. The Sea View Café has Cruiser Special Dinners for really great prices. The Aussie BBQ nite is a great value for money at $8 Fiji for a 3-course meal! The sausage was flavorful, and the steak was tender and tasty. They also put on theme meals such as Mexican and Indian for “yachtie prices”, and they provide a venue for the seminars and cooking class put on by Curly and his staff. Lots of fun and socializing! The Wai Tui Marina started Friday BBQ nites for an incredible $6 Fiji. The friendly staff manned the meat and fish grill and served up salads and side dishes family-potluck style. The Copra Shed marina has now a new Japanese/seafood restaurant called Cruiser’s. Tomo, the owner is a very nice fellow whose hope is to give a new option in food to the area. The Copra Shed complex has also a café and the Savusavu Yacht Club bar. On a more up-scale level, the ‘Surf and Turf’ restaurant in town, upstairs across from the bus station, is owned by Atesh, the Executive Chef of the Cousteau Resort. The clean, contemporary décor, air conditioning, and thickly cushioned chairs are a treat, as is the cuisine. Artfully presented selections such as BBQ Baby Octopus and salad dressed with sweet chili and balsamic vinegar, and Fillet Mignon and Garlic Prawns with Siraz demi-glaze and plantain chips reflect Atesh’s influence. Prices range from $12 to $50 for dinner mains or as little as $4 – $6 for lunch specials. The Bula-Re owner is a Trans-Ocean cruising station, her restaurant and art shop is opposite the post office, and she rents cars too.
Savusavu was great for renewing friendships with folks we
hadn’t seen in a while, and to meet new cruisers.
Naveria Heights Lodge and Activities: This young couple, Sharon and Beat specialize in fitness and health, and have activities ranging from easy walks to an isolated village, to rigorous hikes and bush walks to hot springs and waterfalls, mountain biking, and aqua-activities. Meals emphasize health and well being.
Labasa: (Lam-ba-sa) When there are many yachts in Savusavu harbor, Curly can arrange a bus trip for Cruisers to the largest city on Vanua Levu, Labasa. The 2-½ hr ride includes commentary on the way, and if the planets align correctly, and the season is right, there could be a tour of the sugar mill, (we missed out). The scenery changes as you traverse the island, and there are some nice views. Labasa is the largest town on the island, (tho still only medium-sized) having a better produce market, larger supermarkets, and more hardware and industrial supplies than Savusavu. You could also rent a car, or take the local bus to Labasa if there is no trip offered, but we heard stories from other cruisers about very bad roads and deplorable cars, or crowds and limited return buses, and even an incident of a bag being lifted by young boys (who were later caught and punished).
Natewa Bay: Lomalagi Resort: Jackie had a treat for her birthday: a night, a lobster dinner, and breakfast at this up-scale hideaway resort known for its isolation and pristine views of the bay of Natewa! A young American couple was married that afternoon, the bride arriving for her vows on a bilibili, a Fijian bamboo raft, paddled by 2 Fijian warriors and 2 boy-warriors. The outdoor sunset wedding at the edge of the bay with misty clouds obscuring the far shores as mere silhouettes was beautiful as the rain lifted. Collin and Terry, owner and manager, were the most gracious of hosts, making sure the wedding was a uniquely memorable time for the young couple. We felt special ourselves to be included in the ceremony and the scrumptious dinner of slipper lobster, and wedding cake for dessert!
Cousteau Resort: on the SE point of Savusavu Bay; just inside of the lagoon, after you pass the light marking the pass. You can find reasonable depth to anchor just north of the resort’s boat moorings on a shelf of sand interspersed among large coral heads. It was protected from strong SE. The resort is not especially cruiser friendly or unfriendly. You can land the dinghy at the pier, but please don’t leave it blocking access for the dive boats. The prices for drinks and meals reflect the more upscale clientele that is preferred. Expect to pay well over $100 Fiji for a dinner. There were cruisers who said it was worth the price for a fine meal. There were those shocked to pay over a $100 for 3 people for a lunch of sandwiches. Forewarned! We tried several times to go diving with the resort’s dive center but it never worked out! Yachts have tried stopping here before checking in at Savusavu, and some were fined when they later saw the officials.
Fawn Harbour: Straightforward entrance with good light but we decided to wait outside when a wall of rain overtook us, and the island, the reef and the pass disappeared in the mist. The first marker is well inside the entrance so give it a wide berth to starboard. In fairly good light it is easy to see which side of the markers is the deep channel. Calder’ guide gives details. The CM93 Charts were actually pretty accurate for this bay. The mangrove anchorage in the West of the bay is well protected and has reasonable anchoring depth (<30ft). Another anchorage is found off the conspicuous blue-roofed house of the welcoming family with 2 kids (US/French). (The Pickering Plantation anchorage in the guide). The only access to shore is from here. There are Fijian homes here too. On the hillside is the home of Lima, who has hot spring pools beside a cool river on her land. You will need someone to guide you there. It is not a tourist attraction, and she wants to keep it pristine as a heritage for her offspring. Several yachts elect to base themselves here during the cyclone season.
Dakuniba/Sosobu Bay: Well-protected anchorage in the mangrove (we would take our chances with a coming cyclone here!). David, Margaret, Dicky and their extended family are so welcoming to cruisers as their Gold visitor’s books attest. The family has a boat-building heritage and has a Fijian-made sailboat moored in front. We went night spear fishing with Dicky, did great hikes around with amazing views to other bays, went swimming in the pools at the village in the next bay West (also filled our water jugs), had kava ceremonies, Sunday lunch and lots of fun! A nice place: not to miss! The CM 93 Charts are quite far off for this pass and bay, even tho it is only 10 miles east of Fawn Harbor. Luckily, the pass is straight and deep and marked by sticks. One of the places where cruisers feel the most welcome (genuinely!)
Viani Bay: We had heard about Jack and Sophie Fisher welcoming yachts here. This bay’s anchorage is close to the world-famous diving at Rainbow Reef. Great soft corals and very interesting dives are found all along the reefs on the West side of the Somo somo channel! If you have your own diving equipment (incl. tanks and compressor) for only F$10, Jack will accompany you to the famous dive sites. He will man your dinghy while you dive. Most dives are drift dives so you need someone to pick you up. The choice of which site to dive is very tide dependent; there can be strong currents. Without a knowledgeable guide, you could end up in a very dangerous situation, or won’t find the dive spots either! The other option, we took, is to dive with Roland from Dolphin Bay Divers. They are the only dive center on this side of the straits and the least expensive for Rainbow Reef area (all other operators are based in Taveuni > where the resorts are). So instead of 40 min boat rides from Taveuni, from Viani Bay you only have 10 min boat rides J. Viola & Roland operate a small friendly basic resort off Vanaira beach, a couple of bays north of Viani. We had an excellent dinner (~$15F) there and came back by dinghy to our boat after dark without problems (check where the reefs extend from the points of land). The dive boat will pick you up in Viani bay anchorage as their captain (Apex) lives there. It’s also possible to anchor in their bay. This super friendly couple (German/Swiss) will soon have their own place right next to Jack in Viani Bay so it will be even more convenient in the future. They plan to have Internet and laundry services too … anything we cruisers need J You can take dive courses too and prices are reasonable! Roland is a 9 yr veteran of Rainbow Reef diving. Genuinely nice people, with whom to dive those top dive spots ( info@dolphinbaydivers.com ). The White Wall was great, but we liked some of the other sites better for fish action and marine life.
Island of Taveuni:
Our first anchorage was off Somosomo village. After sevusevu with the paramount chief’s spokesman, we were welcome around all of Taveuni. Grocery stores, bread and more are nearby. From here, we took our scooters to explore the South part of the island. After a few miles of paved road, we had difficulties in muddy road … so we ended up hitchhiking to the South and coming back with the public bus (more sightseeing). A $4 taxi ride of 10 min got us to the water slides of Waitavala. The water zooms through a narrow channel frothing and boiling for about 50 meters, including a rooter tail bank in the curve, and spits the rider out in a deep pool at the end. The children were unafraid, some even sliding down standing skateboard style! We just enjoyed the series of deep pools and the bubbly natural Jacuzzis.
Our second anchorage was further north, in front of Taveuni Island Resort. Can have swell here, so it is a little tricky to secure the dinghy safely (unless you roll or lift it passed the high water mark). The upscale Maravu Plantation Resort and Spa welcomes visitors who wish to dine on the open-air terrace overlooking the pool and it’s murmuring landscaped cascade. Thursday is Island Night buffet. We had a sumptuous Sunday breakfast buffet, where the chef cooked eggs to order in addition to the myriad of other hot and cold choices. The spa has many ways to pamper the tired body. For a real escape from the rolly anchorage, a stay in one of the spacious, air-conditioned, spa pool, Bures would be heaven! It’s worth at least having drinks or a meal there to enjoy the tropical garden ambiance.
Our third anchorage was inside the reef on the very north end in front of two forested islands closest to the Matei area. This is the area with the most concentration of restaurants and beachfront accommodations, a couple grocery stores, and even a pastry shop!! It’s not entirely calm here, but the movement was less than on the open coast. The chart doesn’t show it, but there are many deep openings in the barrier reef, and deep water up to the little islands where we anchored in good sand in 25ft. Just stay outside the breakers going north until you see a wide opening giving you a straight shot at the space between the two islands. When we were there, there was a cabin cruiser moored in front of the southernmost island, and a blue roofed pearl farm building and pier on the other. On the northeast side of Taveuni, we hiked to all 3 Tavoro falls at the Bouma Park. Only 2 hours of walking up and back to see all 3 falls. Each one can be swum at and they are all different and worth it! Take your lunch with you and enjoy the day! You can go there by public bus but be aware that the last one leaves from Bouma at 2pm. We love island night buffets, and discovered 2 nice ones: Tovu Tovu resort’s on Friday, and Coconut Grove’s on Saturday. Fijian owned Tovu tovu’s buffet had a nice varied selection of dishes from the underground oven, and other local fare. Many resident ex-pats were there which speaks well for the quality and value for the $20 price. They have Internet services, and a dive center too. Coconut Grove is owned by Rhona, a vibrant American woman who grabbed the nicest beach in the area over 10 years ago and has made a success of her cozy, clean, resort, restaurant and craft shop. Now she gives back to the island by being in the Rotary Club doing altruistic volunteer projects with the local and international Rotary Clubs. We enjoyed the local music, kava, and buffet dishes on the terrace, sitting with Rhona and a Veterinarian/ ER Physician couple who came, with her help, to give medicines and services on the island. Rhona welcomes visitors for meals, and drinks overlooking her great beach and the anchorage. She has some beautiful selections of crafts and jewelry in her boutique.
Buca Bay (BOO-theh): This bay made a convenient anchorage for us to return to Savusavu by bus to pick-up 8 Trojan golf cart batteries that didn’t make it before we left for Also Island for Christmas. Instead of sulking and waiting in Savusavu, we continued to cruise. Buda Bay is protected from all but northerly winds, and has good holding in dense mud. At the head of the bay, it shallows out gradually, and you can pick your depth. We chose to anchor close to the old rickety pier at the school grounds, because you could tie there at any tide, and the bus stops at the school. The bus ride on the regular bus was $4.30 ea way, and took about 2 1/2 hrs. There is an express bus from the village at 7AM, but it’s a long walk from the school or a long slog through mud at low tide. The regular bus passes the school twice, around 10 min to 8AM, and 10-15 min after. It leaves Savusavu around 2PM, giving enough time to do some shopping and some errands. The chief of the village and his family were nice and took us with them to the river. Having lived in NZ for 10 yrs, he was recalled to his village to succeed to his father. Interesting conversations with this modern Fijian chief!
Rabi Island: We were disappointed to find out that we missed the Rabi (RAM-bee) Days Celebration, a weeklong affair starting December 15. This year was a special one too, as it was the 60th Anniversary of their relocation from their heritage island of Banaba, (aka Ocean Island) near Kiribati. They had traditional Dances and music on the opening day. The 4 villages of the island had sports competitions and social events during the week, and more dancing and music the last day. We anchored at 2 different anchorages, one, on the south west side looking at “picnic” beach, a pretty, white sand beach (marked Georgia’s Cove on the chart) (16 31.89S/179 58.17E) on plateau of about 12 –14 meters. This is a protected anchorage in E winds with an open approach. The second anchorage was in Katherine’s Bay, on the south side, protected from all sides except the SW, in 8 meters over mud surrounded by mangroves. There is an all-tide dinghy landing at the old copra shed of the village. The old church and the flamboyant trees on the hill, make a beautiful sight on entering the bay. Note: the channel marker marking the end of the reef extending out from the southern point of Rabi was no longer there. The people of Rabi are ethnologically very different from the Fijians, as they are from Micronesia, a very handsome people with smooth bronze skin, bright white teeth, and jet-black hair. The women are like Polynesians, as they tie back their long wavy hair and adorn it with flowers. The people we encountered were not as spontaneously friendly as the Fijians, but if you say “Mauri”, their greeting, they will smile and respond. Their best ambassadors were Wanati, and his wife Angie, the village’s brewers of Banaban’s favorite alcoholic drink, “toddy”. Wanati showed us how to prepare and cut the coconut tree flower, to collect the nectar, which is naturally sweet and pleasant to drink fresh. But, once they discovered the fermented version, “toddy” became the preferred form! We didn’t see the exact process, but it is naturally fermented pure nectar, no water or yeast added. The flowers are cut morning and afternoon (some also cut at noon) to keep the nectar flowing. When it’s “young” it’s pretty pleasant, when it’s “old” it’s almost undrinkable! This young couple also took us to their waterfall on a Sunday afternoon. We took the dinghy across the head of the bay, and then walked and scrambled up the river about 30 minutes to a 2-tiered fall. The upper tier cascaded into a deep (over 10 ft) pool carved into the composite rock. We ate lunch sitting on the lip of the pool looking over the edge at the pool below.
Every week-day, three times a day, a truck transports people and school children to the village on the south side (the one you see from Georgia Cove anchorage), then a bus leaves this village, and takes folks to the next two villages, the last being Nuku, the administrative center. There is only one other car on the island. It’s 50 cents for the truck and another 50 cents for the bus each way. A bargain price to see the 4 villages of the island and some of the west coast!
One of the nicest sights around Rabi is the people still sailing small outrigger canoes to go fishing! Their sails are made from the ubiquitous blue plastic tarps you see all over the South Pacific. If any of you have old sails on board, you’ll make someone happy if you stop at Rabi!!
Also Island, Vanua Levu: For years we have known Commodores Jim and Kyoko Bandy through Jim’s radio net on frequency 8173, The Rag of the Air. It’s an irreverent, low-key net that keeps track of boats on passage, gives weather bulletins for relevant areas, health and welfare traffic, and is spiced with bantering and wit stimulated by Jim, who likes to keep the pot stirred up. They have established a base on a small island christened Also Island, near the village of Cawaro (tha-WARH-o), 20 miles west of Udu Point on the north side of Vanua Levu. (See their story in previous SSCA Bulletins). During the cyclone season, nary a sailboat ventures to that side. We met Jim in Savusavu in late November, and promised we’d be there to spend Christmas and New Year’s with them. Jim was skeptical, because we’ve been promising to come visit ever since we left Tonga for Fiji 7 months ago!! But this time we made good on our word! We were impressed with what has been accomplished at Also Island, and the really pretty setting they have made by blending the buildings, landscaping, and the unique geology of the island together. They are dedicated to providing services and provisions to the surrounding villages, trying to teach them ways to make income to buy those things that cannot be grown or made, and bringing cruisers and villagers together in a mutually beneficial exchange of cultures and skills. Great place to get a cheap lunch! Jim and Kyoko put on a really nice Christmas party for their staff and the children of their associated village. Plenty of food, balloons, “grog” for the adults, and prizes for the children. On Christmas day we went to mass in Cawaro village and had the Christmas midday meal with the extended family of the Chief, with whom we had made the sevu sevu ceremony shortly after arriving in the anchorage. New Year’s Eve was celebrated on Also Island with Jim and Kyoko providing the roast Turkey and fish, and us the dessert, sparkling wine, and old signal flares. All was finished by 9:00 PM, because the village staff members had finished up all the grog, thus it was time to go home!!
On the rest of the days, activities included taking our dinghy up the nearby river 10-15 km, on the way we found a great little niche in the mangroves protected from wind and seas in case of cyclone (could make it into the river with our 5 ft draft at high tide). To the west, around another point or two, we went with the Also V, Jim’s run-about, 10 miles up an even larger river to take Kyoko to a bridge where she could catch a bus into Labasa. Went to a fund-raising event at Nukusa village where we saw our first meke, traditional village dancing. Swam at the waterfall of Cawaro village, and snorkeled at the pass north of Bekana island. We participated in hauling out a 40ft wooden motor vessel, the “traditional” way with logs serving as the railway and men from 3 different villages serving as the “winch”, by pulling and pushing. Amazing what manpower can do! Jim will be very busy repairing this boat with its seized up engine, and the wood full of worms and rot! The village on the isolated island of Cikombia depends on this vessel, as it’s only means of contacting the outside.
Part 3 will cover Viti Levu West side and Mamanucas & Yasawas.
Fair winds when you sail, and great shore explorations to all of you!
Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zoetje & Zenne. < sloepmouche@gmail.com >
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