===============================================================================SLOEPMOUCHE --- 46’ Norman Cross trimaran --- 5’ draft --- September 2003

 

Dear SSCA,

 

After almost 4 years here in French Polynesia, it was hard for us to leave to explore more of the interesting South Pacific … but we’ll come back some day! Despite rumors of life being so expensive (somethings, yes …somethings, no) … this is truly a wonderful cruising area! We can understand why many French or European boats (no immigration problems) decide to stay here indefinitively because French Polynesia has so much to offer!

Our recommendation would be to spend as much time as you can here. Yes, if you apply in advance to your home French Consulate, you could get a one-year permit to stay (a resident visa, not a tourist visa). Fill the paperwork, show your solvency, explain why you want to stay that long and it will probably be granted! For more info see our SSCA Oct02 letter.

For early letters about the area, check our letter about the Marquesas on www.noonsite.com; for the Tuamotus > see our SSCA letters in Jan01 & 2003; for the Societies >see SSCA Jan02 & 2003.

 

Let’s start with 4 more places we visited, not covered in our previous letters.

Originally, we were to meet with Jimmy and Gwenda Cornell, “Aventura Trois” in Feb. in the Marquesas and cruise with them through some of the Tuamotus that we had written about in our SSCA letter of 2000, but we had a minor set back 2 hrs after we set out from Moorea for the Marquesas.   We were already getting a taste of the dreaded upwind sailing with heavy seas in the channel between Moorea and Tahiti, when Jackie heard a loud squeaking sound, like metal on metal, and a minute later…Whoomp!  The furler and headsail took a dive over the port side!!  By luck, we have headstays as well as a furler, so there was no worry about the mast, and with our wide beam, we were still stable even in heavy seas, and were able to wrestle the whole mess aboard, tie it to the lifelines, and head back to Tahiti safely.  By the time we got the repairs done, it really was too late to get to the Marquesas, so we arranged with “Aventura Trois” to meet them in the Tuamotus instead.

 

As we had some weeks before the rendezvous, we decided to visit a few new atolls and take our time “beating”. By luck, we had a much better wx window as the wind went N, and by following the GRIB wx files, we were able to aim at Anaa atoll and sail/motor sail east. As the wind crept back to its regular E-ESE direction, we turned N and because of  timing, to arrive at a destination in daylight, passed by Fakarava, and went north of it to RARAKA, a new atoll for us. The pass is on the NNW side, and so is relatively calm in prevailing winds (16 05’.30/ 144 57’.50).  Our arrival time was also a fortuitous time for the tides, and the light was good so we had no problem getting in.  As in all the other atolls, the pass is well marked, even having range markers. The pass is relatively wide and relatively deep (at least 15ft). On the inner side of the pass, there is a small motu on the port side as you enter, and the reef with the range marker on it just breaks the surface.  For the first time coming in, the surest route is to follow the range markers all the way up to that reef with the markers and then follow along the left side of the reef. One can see the deeper water in good light. Later, we saw that there is a deep enough channel branching off between the village and the small motu, or that we could have turned to port just after the small motu, and before getting to the range markers.

Keeping a good reef watch, we passed the village and found anchorage further on in front of an old seawall and some unfinished structures. (16 05’53/144 56’96)  The only village in Raraka is right next to the pass, and there is a small boat “harbor” where one can take the dinghy in. The people of the village are nice, but most are quite discreet. We hardly saw any movement of people except occasionally a boat going out to their “sector” to work copra.  We were greeted at our boat by the village’s school teacher, her husband, and son and were invited to their house and were given fish that we watched them catch at their “fish park” at the pass.  They just asked us to choose what fish we wanted then scooped them up!

Raraka is a good “beginners” atoll, because traveling through the lagoon from the village in the N to the S side following w/in a mile or two of the north and eastern motus, we encountered almost no shallow coral heads, and those that we did see were well visible from far away even when the light was not the best.

The atoll is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, and we did the typical activities of beachcombing, collecting coconuts for water and meat, getting hearts of palm (only from areas obviously overgrown and uncared for), spearfishing, reef walking, and of course, drift snorkeling thru the pass (in-going current), and a scuba dive out of the current just N of the pass. The pass was full of fish, awaiting goodies brought in on the incoming tide.  The scuba dive was nice, and easy with good visibility.

 

We did a day-sail from Raraka, easily zooming out the pass on an out-going current, with few overfalls which were easily skirted, and arrived at KAUEHI’s SW pass about mid-afternoon, when we calculated would be minimum current.  There was still a moderate (~3kt) current flowing out, but the overfalls outside were not big and again, easily skirted on the side.  This pass is an easy one because it is deep, wide, very short and straight, and deep almost all the way up to the shore on each side. Perhaps that’s why there is only one lone green navigational marker halfway inside. If you need to wait outside for a favorable current, or want to dive on the outside, boats up to about 50’ could use the mooring set up by one of the big charter Cats that’s located a couple hundred yards S of the pass. Of course, this is a private mooring, so treat it w/ care, and never trust a mooring w/o looking at it with your own eyes.

After getting in, we headed to the protected SE corner, seeing practically no reefs until we got close to the motus and shallows near the anchorage area.  We anchored in less than 30’ over pure white sand, and put our usual 3 floats on our chain to hold it up to pass over any scattered coral heads that could snag it if we swing.  There we met, for the first time, Commodores Jim and Vicky, and crew Dillon on “Firebird”.  We’d become e-mail pals through www.NOONSITE.com when they contacted Luc to ask about longterm visas for French Polynesia, after reading Luc’s update on the site. Following the advice, they got their requested 8-month visa granted.  We kept in touch throughout their voyage, until this momentous day when our waypoints finally merged!  They zoomed over in their annex, invited us on board their magnificent 82’ aluminum ketch, and treated us like charter guests to a wonderful dinner to thank us for all the help and advice. Is that the SSCA spirit, or what??  After “Firebird” left, we explored the lagoon a little more, hopping our way up the east side to the village of Tearavero. This leg requires more vigilance to skirt the coral heads and shoals and the miriad of pearl farm buoys as you get close to the village. The large church is a prominent feature, and deceives one into thinking the village is much bigger than it is.  We learned from the mayor that ciguatera is a big problem there since the building of the airstrip. We had speared a grouper that in all the other atolls was ok, but when we told him, he said, better throw it away.  The only fish the villagers were eating were fish caught outside the lagoon.   There looks to be a very protected anchorage in a bay on the N side of the village.  We were able to get some bread by waking up the storekeeper from her siesta, and getting a few loaves that they keep stored in the freezer. Don’t expect much in the way of supplies unless the boat is due.

From the village, we followed the navigational markers to the pass.  Having found out about the mooring outside, plus the fact that there was no wind, we decided to exit the pass and stay the night there. That way we could take off for Fakarava anytime without worrying about currents and tides.

What an eerie feeling to be moored in 70’ of water and have the reef just beside us.  Believe me you, we checked the state of the mooring thoroughly!  We took the opportunity of the calm to do a night dive in that clear water.  Although the mooring is not really close to the pass, we had a good current, so stayed close to the bottom and went against it. Good dive, but didn’t see any lobsters!  After coming back, we saw fishing boats with spotlights, and found out they were catching fish for the villagers to eat, since ciguatera plagues the lagoon fish.

 

After one more day of no wind, and some more diving, we had a nice sail to FAKARAVA’s South Pass.  Even tho we’d been there before and were fooled the first time finding the entrance, it still wasn’t evident where the pass was until we were right in front of it (approx: 16 31’.5/145 27’.5) because it enters at an angle, and there are few overfalls even with a good outgoing current.  Be careful if you are approaching from the east, because, there are a couple dive buoys quite a ways from the pass entrance that we just about ran over.  The pass is so protected and calm looking that we didn’t realize the strength of the current until we were passed Sonny’s resort, and tried to take the right channel that’s a short cut to the anchorage, and found out that we weren’t making any headway at all for minutes.  Luc didn’t dare push our tired 20 yr old engine any more, so we had to crab our way over to the marked main channel, and there, ever so slowly made it to where we could turn around the channel marker into the anchorage! (16 30’.3/145 27’.3)  As we’ve written before, this anchorage is bouncy in SE trades, and the sand patches between coral heads are small. This is where our chain/buoy system is especially valuable. 

 

Next morning at first light, “Aventura Trois” came in and anchored next to us.  For the first time, we got to meet Gwenda and Jimmy Cornell, after 2 yrs or so of e-mail correspondence when Luc became a www.noonsite.com regional editor for French Polynesia.  Jimmy is definitely a fast-trak “cruiser”, with his speaking engagements, and other schedule commitments, he’s more often burning up the nautical miles, than wandering among the coconut palms. We did get to spend about a week together making our way from S to N Fakarava.  They left a day ahead of us to squally boisterous sailing ( I think Jimmy loves it!) and we left the next day exiting the north pass a few hours before dark, and had cloudy skies, and 25+ winds, which died down some for the rest of the trip into Tahiti.

 

Got together with the Cornells again in Tahiti before they flew back to England/France.  AVP, the sailboat assoc. of Polynesia, organized a get-together/ book signing at the Arue Yacht Club, where Aventura was berthed, the evening that the Cornells departed.  Many attendees were impressed with Jimmy’s French, and the fact that he had so many answers to questions right on the tip of the tongue on many varied subjects.  Jimmy was gratified to see that many appreciated the French translations of his famous works, and especially that he saw highlighting and underlining which indicates that people really do use these as references to plan their passages.

 

We then revisited the Societies to finally visit the last 2 we didn’t know.

 

MAUPITI

If you want to visit a small island in the ‘before tourism’ Societies, then come to this beautiful island protected completely by reefs and motus. The pass, despite rumors of being risky and difficult, is in fact easier than it looks when you have the right wx conditions. So be patient and enjoy more of Bora Bora until the wx is right! That means:  swell of no more than 1.5m  from the SW, S or SE; also no SE winds of more than 20 knots!  The pass is narrow at the entrance,< 100ft, and has a controlling depth of  more than 10 ft , and  the current is always out-going, but can be light , <3kts, or strong , up to 6 kts, depending upon tide and swell conditions.  Contact the captain of the Maupiti Express by VHF 16 to get local info. This ferry goes 3x/wk to Maupiti.

It’s true that if unfavorable wx conditions develop once you are inside, you may have to wait for the pass to be practicable again … but we know of worse places to be stuck! Especially in a well protected anchorage!

We met Georges and Claude, a retired French couple. He used to work in the yachting world so they are very friendly with cruisers. They make local arts & craft with what they find in the sea … and prices are more than reasonable! Ui and Simone, a local couple, runs the Maupiti Loisirs ( 67 80 95) guesthouse. They rent bicycles, and you can have a local dinner at their place (what a view and what a nice BBQ meal). Simone happily, speaks English  and Ui takes people on an island tour (the only one truly circumnavigating the island) in his shade covered boat where you roam everywhere around the lagoon  and where you stop ashore to visit many attractions: motus with snorkeling, marae, petroglyphs, snack, lizard grotto. All that at a very affordable price!

If you hike, you will enjoy the 60-90 min walk to the top of the highest point of view. Take the wide cement staircase opposite of Snack Tarona in town just north of the post office. From the old broken down guesthouse go up to the antenna relay and then follow the trail (red paint markers on rocks). What beautiful views of all the lagoon colors! We had our lunch there, on top of Maupiti. Don’t forget your camera!

You can also walk all around the island in about 3 hours or you can bike around and relax at the beautiful white silky sandy beach on the N side.

Order your bread the day before, at the bakery next to the main dock, as those will be your last French baguettes until New Caledonia! Small stores sell canned goods and vegetables. Get locally grown watermelons, papayas, mangoes, lemons and bananas from the growers, ask around.

 

MOPELIA:

The perfect place to end a cruise in French Polynesia. If you regret not having spent more time in the Tuamotus, this is your chance to experience another atoll! An average of only 13 peoples lives in this remote atoll 125 nm West of Bora Bora.

The pass is scarrier in the cruising guide than in reality. It is well marked and in good light, easy to see the way in. Entrance coordinates are 16 46’92S – 153 58’67W. Since it is situated on the NW side of the lagoon, you do not want to come with Westerly winds or heavy NW swells, but in regular trade wind conditions, it’s protected. Best time to enter is variable.  We were told to enter around mid-day by one cruiser, and at first light by another cruiser, but upon observation, the least current changed time of day during the three weeks we were there, so we suspect that there is a tidal influence that changes each day like in the Tuamotus.  We did not verify this with a tide table, but the variation we saw seemed to bear this out.  Like the Tuamotus, strong wind and swell that brings more water into the lagoon will also increase the perpetually outgoing current.  The pass is narrow but plenty wide enough for our 25 ft wide trimaran! It is deep enough for at least 10-ft draft. After the narrow channel marked by the white posts, head for the big red/orange buoy and leave it just on your port. From here, you can sail straight to the 2 white roofed houses you see in the NE corner of the lagoon on the long motu. (the village, in the older guides).  Anchor anywhere along that long, long motu.  The present community is now located at the Southern end.

We got lucky to meet 2 very nice families: Kalami, Sophie and sons Kami & 2 little ones, and Frankie, Monique and their son Vetea.  Since they do not get supplies here often (boat comes here once a month), we, like many cruisers, brought them fruits, vegetables, bread and more from Maupiti. They invited us to real feasts where we ate excellent poisson-cru, lobsters, pig and “sea” chicken (ask those guys about it). It’s very nice if cruisers help locals repair anything broken at the time: outboards, gensets, boats, in exchange for their generous welcome.

We went lobstering one night, we snorkeled in the pass (drift) and outside on the remains of the famous Sea Sadler, German privateer, wrecked there at the end of WWI. We also visited the bird motu. Got heart of palms, coconut water and coconut meat. Kalami even taught us how to fish the little known, but highly prized, varo!

The lagoon is fairly small so the fetch is not too long. We anchored overnight at the bird motu with only light chop. There, near the reef, we released a small female lobster with eggs that was given us.  We try to tell them not to take small or female w/ eggs, but sadly, it doesn’t sink in.

 

Here are the newest updates on services that cater to yacht people and help keep the Noonsite web pages alive, and/or whom we or others have had good experiences:

 

In French Polynesia in general:

Europcar now offers special discounts (say you saw them at www. Noonsite. Com )if you rent cars from them in different islands so it may be a way to save on multiple locations. Contact their representative in Bora (67 70 15 / 67 70 03  europcarborabox@mail.pf)

The biggest ship chandler will ship anything in stock to any of the islands. Contact Francois in Tahiti. (50 59 59 <FJounot@tahiti-sport.pf>)

If you plan to make many dives in Fr.Pol. consider the Blue Nui Dive Centers. They have dive centers located in all the Pearl Beach Resorts: in Manihi & Tikehau (Tuamotus) and Tahaa & Bora Bora (Societies). They offer special multiple dive cards with special discounts for Noonsite cruisers. You can make your dives in any of the 4 dive centers (67 79 07 / 79 22 72 boraborabluenui@mail.pf) PADI & CMAS affiliated.

 

Tuamotus:

Fakarava: good scuba operation in Rotoava: see Jean-Claude at Te Ava Nui Fakarava (98 42 50 / 79 69 50

jclapeyre@netcourrier.com ). This atoll becomes the second most developed after Rangiroa: improved roads, a new hotel…. But we are still far from Hawaii or the Caribbean!

 

The Societies:

 

Tahiti:

The center of French Polynesia! Papeete, the big town, offers the attractions of cities all over. You can find pretty much anything if you know where to look!  Selection is good and prices are lower than in the outer islands. Check Carrefour, Champion and Hyper-U for provisioning. First neccesities are subsidised, and equivalent or cheaper than stateside prices.  Generally speaking, you can often find a much cheaper equivalent of many products if you really scan the prices.  Of course, if you really have to have truffles and “fois gras”.....

You can have repaired many things that break on your boat! Many specialists here! See Francois, the manager of Nautisport (see above) for local knowledge or Gilles at Appi Yachting (42 18 10 apiyachting@mail.pf).

If you need boat parts that you cannot get locally, ask Alain on the boat “Rai atea” (72 33 07 VHF CH 67 & 16

info@moanaroa.com) or Michel on the boat “Teva III” (74 10 02 fqyb@sailmail.com), both anchored at the Maeva Beach/Marina Taina area in Tahiti. They both order from Europe, USA and NZ. Michel has some anchors and chain in stock but it’s always better to order asap since it takes some time for the stuff to arrive.

If you order things from outside, the most reliable shipper in our experience has been FedEx. They are very efficient, fast and pleasant. If you contact them in advance, they will hold your package until you arrive or forward it to you in the outer-islands. If there is an airport where you are, chances are they will get it to you the next day! (45 36 45 / 42 19 19 globalac@mail.pf)

As boat in transit, you can get things duty-free but you mostly will have to pay a customs agent anyway to get it thru customs! Inform yourself before. For considerable purchases, you might negotiate duty-free prices from local marine dealers. In some cases, it is more advantageous to buy locally!

Electronic components, computer parts and communication equipment can be found at Telectronics, close to the Mc Donald in downtown Papeete (50 52 21 telec@tahiti.net)

Desjardins, the Icom dealer: many cruisers reported bad experiences so beware!

For sales and service of marine diesel engines, turbines, gensets, watermakers, propeller shafts, alternators, inverters, filters (oil, gas, air), thermal & sound insulation, professional fishing gear, winches and more > see Sopom just before the bridge of Motu Uta (43 91 15 / 42 99 69 sopom@mail.pf)

A good bosun to splice any kind of lines, see Patrice Convert (73 50 53 convert@mail.pf)

Tahiti Nui Travel at centre Vaima in Papeete can book any flights (intl and local), they also do island tours in A/C mini-vans (54 02 00 sales@tahitinuitravel.pf)

An alternative to change money at the bank, see MG Finance Change in the tourism office shack in front of the cruiseship dock. Surprisingly competitive rates!

Black pearls: beware of inferior pearls for over inflated prices! For gem quality, fair prices, honesty & truly pleasant people, we have had great experiences with Pearly Shell situated opposite the cruiseship dock. They’re one of the only to give free X-ray of any pearl they have to guarantee the thickness of the coating! See Guy, the owner or Evelyne & Lilia. Do not hesitate to mention noonsite, and Luc, to get a discount!

For personal well-being while cruising to self-healing thru simple, fast & efficient methods. Energetic equilibrium guided meditations, relaxing massage, creative visualization, positive thinking.

Workshop will teach you natural techniques to use yourself to achieve energetic equilibrium , see Jocelyne at Harmonie Tahiti (26 28 66 / 23 56 03 harmonie.tahiti@mail.pf)

Some cruisers had also good experiences to practice or learn surfing with the Surf Tura'i Mataare Surfing School (41 91 37 / 77 27 69 surfschool@mail.pf)

 

Moorea:

We discovered a good welder for aluminum, steel or SS, contact Eimeo at 56 24 57 / 56 18 08 / 74 16 12 , he is also a carpenter.

For beautiful arts & crafts, check out Dany Creation (56 45 96 - free pick up) and Woody’s (400m from Hotel Beachcomber - 56 37 00 woodyho@mail.pf)

Good Italian meals at the cruiser- friendly Alfredo in Cook’s bay (56 17 71 / VHF ch 69 chrismar@mail.pf) Free transportation for dinner from anywhere on the island, live entertainment some evenings.

Crave good pizza?, call Allo Pizza (56 18 22  bobandval@mail.pf)

Another dive center to check out: Scubapiti (56 20 38 / 78 03 52 scubapitidaniel@mail.pf)

Walk underwater with an authentic hard hat! See Aquablue at the BCB (56 53 53 / 73 24 40 aquablue_pf@hotmail.com)

 

Huahine:

From Fare dinghy pier, plenty of things are in walking distance:

Good local food right at the water edge, the Restaurant Te-Marara. The friendly owners have been in business for 28 years! Restaurant Les Tipaniers, 100 yards from the pier has good and inexpensive daily menu (68 80 52 / tiare.tipanier@mail.pf)

You can rent a bike from Huahine Lagoon , right next to dinghy pier. The owner is also an expert surfer!

Island tours at Pension Enite (68 82 37)

Check the beautiful anchorage on the SW side, baie Avea. You can have a good meal, internet access and participate in different watersports at Pension Mauarii (68 86 49 <vetea@mail.pf>)  Very cruiser-friendly.

 

Tahaa:

Marina Iti is a convenient stop in the channel between Tahaa and Raiatea. Philippe the owner/manager is an ex-yachtie and 10 moorings are free for customers. Excellent food has gotten a lot of thumbs up  from many cruisers this last season. (65 61 01 / VHF CH68 marinaiti@mail.pf)

Take an interesting island tour by boat with Bruno himself - Tahaa Pearl Tour (66 10 90 <tpt@mail.pf>) or in 4x4 with Vai Poe tours (65 60 83 <v.p@mail.pf>).

Blue Nui Dive center at the Pearl Beach hotel (see note above)

 

Raiatea:

Both yards have a lot going for them! Chantier des ISLV (66 10 10 / VHF 72 raiatea.marine@mail.pf) has good workmanship, clean washroom and internet access at cost for customers. Make sure you ask them before using one of the numerous moorings in the anchorage in front of the yard. Raiatea Carenage (66 22 96 / VHF 68 raiateacarenage@mail.pf) is good for DIY. Dominique also fills butane tanks by gravity. Both yards have very competitive prices compared with the US or Caribbean! They have travel lifts and trailer or railway. Good place also to store your boat on the dry when returning home.  Some yachts had a good experience getting things shipped to the yards, others, a nightmare.  We think follow-up, and being informed before is essential.

The Sunset Beach Motel, conveniently close to the yards is a good and inexpensive guesthouse to stay at while your boat is worked on in the yard (66 33 47 <sunsetbeach@mail.pf>).

An American expatriate living here over 25 yrs, specialized in anthropology, gives very interesting tours. Contact Bill, past Commodore of the Honolulu Yacht Club, at Almost Paradise Tours (66 23 64).

On the East side just when you enter the lagoon thru pass Teavapiti, you will find Pension Tepua with free moorings and a very nice French couple running this gem of a guesthouse. Meals are excellent, pool & internet access for customers. A nice place to relax. (66 33 00 pension-tepua@mail.pf) Also very close to the pass with good snorkeling and scuba.

Scuba diving in that pass and everywhere around the island with Floriane from Te Mara Nui Dive center (66 11 88 / 72 60 19 <temaranui@mail.pf>)

 

Bora Bora:

The famous Bora Bora Yacht Club (67 70 69 <bbyc@mail.pf>) and Bloody Mary’s Restaurant (67 72 86 <bmary@mail.pf>) are 2 hangouts of cruisers since more than 25 years! BBYC: 25 sturdy moorings, 1500 cfp/nite or free if you have dinner once in 3 days / BMR 6 free moorings for customers. Peter, the manager of the BBYC is a nice guy once you pass the first contact. Both places have water & garbage disposal (not during dinnertime, pls). Laundry machine at the BBYC.

Another good restaurant is the Bamboo House (67 76 24 <bamboohouse@mail.pf>)

L’appetisserie (close to center of town) is still the only internet access; price is a bit high but we heard from one user, connection was much faster than most.  Zani is very friendly to cruisers and helps in many ways!

For any kind of refrigeration or electrical problem, contact SAV Bora Froid service (74 50 37 <yannick68@mail.pf>)

If you want a private scuba instructor or if you need a professional diver for any reason, contact Ben at Diveasy (79 22 55 / 67 69 36)

For scuba see Anne at the Bora Bora Diving (67 71 84 / 67 74 83 / VHF 08 <boradiving@mail.pf >) and Aquasafari for traditional scuba or undersea walk (see Anne)

Snorkel all around the island or in the interesting Lagoonarium where you swim in the middle of sharks, turtles and colorful fishes (67 71 34 <lagonarium@mail.pf>)

The original shark feeding of Bora Bora. Contact Sharkboy (67 60 93 / 78 27 42 <sharkboy@mail.pf>) 

Want to see the underwater beauties of Bora without getting wet: take an inexpensive tour in the famous Aquascope (67 61 92 / 78 27 92 <aquascopebora@mail.pf>)

A tour of the lagoon by jet ski? Beach toys for young kids … see Matira Jet Tours ( 77 63 63 bborajet@mail.pf)

A famous French artist has established himself on the South side. Alain Despert exposes his work in his studio. (60 48 15 <despertborabora@mail.pf>)

Last chance to buy quality black pearls: see Nycos on the town square (60 58 20 <nycos@mail.pf>) (know personally cruisers who were very pleased ), or Paradise Pearls in the galleria with L’appetisserie (67 61 76 <info@paradise-pearls.com>)

 

We are now exploring the Cook and Samoa islands. We’ll give you a full report later! Happy cruising to all! And try not to rush too much thru the islands … taking time to explore more is always rewarding!

 

Commodores Luc Callebaut, Jackie Lee and Zoetje