OFFICER’S CLUB BAR AND RESTAURANT at BENJOR BEACH CLUB

Who would drive 20 minutes out of Port Vila (the last bit on the unsealed Devil’s Point Rd) to go to a restaurant?  Apparently, the PM and his entourage, as they chose the Officer’s Club as the venue for a cocktail function to honor the visiting US Assistant Secretary of State on last Oct.27^th.  Being presented, on short notice, with this personal “Millennium Challenge”, Jane and David Barrett, new managers of Benjor Beach Club since last August, rose admirably to the occasion.  “We were phoned in the midst of Tok Tok (Vanuatu’s largest Tourism Trade Show) and told, “We want cocktails, beer, wine, tea, coffee, finger foods…and pigs.”  “Pigs?”  “Pigs.” Jane laughs about it, now.  David added, “We were feeling good about hustling up butchered pigs on such short notice until someone asked, ‘did they say if they wanted them cooked or alive??’”

No fear, all went well.  Restauration is the forte of the Barretts, having 25yrs in the trade, the last 15 running their own establishments from Bistros, to Indonesian, to Ala Carte Fine Dining.  The newly evolving menu reflects their mission to do something different or do it differently from the others while retaining favorite mainstays. “Keep getting demands for T-Bones!”  Rather than bringing in a new Chef and/or imposing all their recipes on the cooking staff, they are very satisfied with their ni-Vanuatu Chefs and draw on their talents and knowledge of local ingredients and island ways of cooking while encouraging their creativity in what Jane calls a kind of Island-Kai-Kai-meets-World-Wide-Cuisine.  Head Chef, Charlie (previously of one of PV’s major resorts), and Second Chef, Sai, (who faithfully reproduces many dishes learned from Benjor’s noted former Chef), in creative sessions with Jane and David, have come up with surprisingly original dishes.  Two new soups: Bok Choy and Yam, and Green Paw Paw and Kumala, and Island “Domades” (seasoned and spiced meat and rice wrapped in island cabbage.)  Everything possible is homemade, like their breads, and bread sticks: Grissini blong Benjor.  And Pastas!  In fact, the shining star of my 3 courses was the starter, handmade Crabmeat/Poulet fish Raviolis in cream sauce.  Each little al dente package, wrapped with unctuous sauce, burst forth with intense sweetness of fresh crabmeat.  Though both regular Chefs absent for our visit, colleague, Steven did very well for us.  My Veal Rouladen (thin slices of veal rolled around cheese and spinach) was not as rare as I would have liked, but the creamy dill sauce was delightful, as was the highly seasoned and garlicky fresh mixed veggie couscous.  Luc’s “Kick-Ass Curry” was a Beef Rendang that was definitely lip searing. While not for the timid, it is so satisfyingly complex with pungent seasonings; it keeps you coming back for bite after bite of exquisite torture. Other temptations are the Salt and Pepper Squid, and Lamb Culets. The prizewinner dessert was the house Chocolate Soufflé.   It takes 15 minutes for the preparation, but if you like warm, fluffy, chocolate lightness, contrasted with cold vanilla ice cream and a hit of chocolate mint sauce on the side, you’ll be rewarded for your patience.

Even on the Chefs’ night off, our culinary experience was worth the effort to get there.  We hear that people even jump on off-road buggies to tour and have lunch at Benjors! Combine a day’s outing enjoying the grounds and the views from the site of the old Officer’s Club of WWII days, with a Champagne breakfast, or private gourmet picnic on the beach, or a Benjor Burger lunch at the Pool Bar and Grill (daily 11:30-2:00), or more satisfyingly serious dining most anytime of the day or evening at the current Officer’s Club Restaurant. (Open 7 days, 8AM till late for breakfast, lunch, and dinner) Breakfasts: to 1200vt. Snacks: 300-700vt. Lunch: 1000-1600vt. Lite Meals/Starters: 800-1600vt. Mains: 1500-2300vt. Exotics: to 3000+ vt.  Phone: 26078 for reservations. (or pigs!)